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How to use Weaver's Stain How to use Willow Peel Natural Walnut Stain Overlapping Reed Ends
A: Staining Tips:
Once your basket is completed and manicured, you are ready for the last step, which is staining.
Weaver's Stain is a tung oil enriched stain
with a urethane resin that penetrates, seals and finishes reed, cane and wood baskets, while still allowing them to breathe.
Weaver's Stain provides a more durable oil finish due to its urethane resin which allows for better resistance to water, abrasion and dirt. You will
add to the lifetime of your basket by using Weaver's Stain to protect it, adding a beautiful luster and sheen at the same time.
Always stain outside or in a well ventilated area.
HOLD CAN APPROXIMATELY 10 INCHES FROM YOUR BASKET
1). Turn basket over and spray bottom first.
2). Work your way up the outside of the basket to the rim. By this time stain has penetrated to the inside and you need only mist the inside of your
basket.
3). Spray inside of your basket.
4). If you have a wood handle, spray the handle last and wipe with a cloth immediately. The longer the stain is on the wood handle, the darker the
handle will be.
DO NOT spray the same area twice.
Once you start spraying, keep the basket and the can moving. Your basket needs only 1 coat of stain.
Should you get more stain on one end of your basket than the other, do not wipe it to even it. It will even itself when it dries.
If stain is dripping from your basket, you are using way too much stain, or you are too close to your basket.
If your basket is darker shade than normal, you are holding the can too close to our basket. The closer you hold the can to your basket the more
intense the color.
You should be able to handle your basket after 15 minutes. However, let it dry 24 hours before actually using it.
Any odor will dissipate after a few days. If you let your basket dry outside, in the shade, the odor will disappear sooner (during warm weather only).
If it is damp or wet outside, it will take longer for your basket to dry. If possible bring your basket inside where it is warm and let it dry (place on a plain
brown paper bag).
You may wish to use a wire coat hanger when staining. Open up the hanger and hook your basket to one end and hang from a tree. This way you can
walk around your basket when staining.
We recommend that you take a large appliance box and cut the flaps out, set the box on its' side and you have a stain booth. Eliminates any over-spray
problem.
Do not spray outside when it is below freezing, 32 degrees. The propellant breaks down in the cold and you are wasting your stain. You'll know when it is
too cold, stain will come out in a stream.
If you have to spray a basket outside when it is below freezing, keep the can inside where it is warm. You may go out and spray your basket. Once the
can becomes cold you will notice a stream of spray. STOP. Go back inside the let the can become room temperature again, then you may go out and
finish your basket.
Do not spray on a windy day.
Do not spray next to your husbands new car or next to your vinyl siding.
VERY IMPORTANT TIPS:
When finished, turn your can upside down and press nozzle for 1 or 2 seconds. This will allow the propellant to clean the cylinder and nozzle.
If the nozzle clogs, and it is a wide nozzle with a fat finger pad, you can remove this nozzle and soak it in mineral spirits for 15 minutes and rinse with
water and place back on can. You're ready to stain again.
The number of baskets stained from one can will vary from weaver to weaver and how experienced the weaver is with the stain.
It also depends on how light or dark a weaver wants the baskets.
However, once a weaver gets a handle on the technique, they should be able to stain:
approx 20+small baskets
approx 8 to 12 medium baskets
approx 6 to 8 large baskets
per can
The Weaver's Stain Family
reprinted with permission
A: Willow peel is willow. It has been debarked and cut into strips (like skeined willow). It is off-white in color and the width can vary slightly.
Willow peel should be soaked in hot water before use or mellowed (wet briefly and wrap in damp towel until flexible enough for use). Soaking will cause
more shrinkage to occur than if it is mellowed.
Willow peel can be used as an accent, lasher, wrapping handles, anywhere that skeined willow is used, or on ribbed baskets.
You may want to scrap off some of the pith (inside of the plant) that is on the underside of each piece, especially if you plan to use it as a lasher.
Willow peel is flexible, but not in the same way as reed, due to the uneven thickness of the pith.
Try these books:
The Handmade Basket Book - Board
Basket Making - Barrett
A: Making walnut stain is really very easy.
If you have a place to work and don't have to worry about splashing the stain, boiling is the fastest way to get a good, dark stain.
Place the walnuts into a pair of pantyhose, tie a knot at the top of the leg. Fill each leg if you like. Or put them into a cheesecloth bag or some type of bag that will let the water reach the nuts but not let the dirt, etc. into the stain water.
There is no need to remove the skins (unless you want to eat the nuts or cut them into slices for coiling, etc.).
Place a leg or two into an enamel pot of boiling water. Boil until you get the intensity of color you desire. You may have to add more water. This may take a little while, don't forget you have the pot on the burner! Once you have a color you like, hang the pantyhose outside to drip & dry. Remember - walnut stain will stain anything and is a permanent stain.
There is no need to add a mordant to walnuts.
Pour the stain into a bucket with a lid (plastic buckets that hold cat litter work great) and use until gone. Occasionally, dip a strainer in to catch the hairs & dirt that comes off the basket. Store in a cool place such as a basement or garage. My boiled stain never gets moldy as long as the lid is kept tightly on the container between uses.
The walnuts in the pantyhose can be reused at least several times. Just make sure they dry out completely after boiling or they will get moldy.
There are other slower ways to make a walnut stain: letting them soak in water, adding ammonia, keeping them outside in garbage cans filled with water, etc. If you do the slow soak, you may want to add several bags of walnuts to get a good color faster.
A: Each row should overlap at a different spot on the basket. If the basket has 4 sides, turn the basket 1/4 turn before starting the next row.
This keeps bulk, from the overlap, from building up and creating a weak spot. Try to never overlap around a corner. If the basket is round, keep about
2-4 spokes in between each overlap. So again, you're turning the basket after you finish a row. Always overlap the ends for 4 spokes. It's OK to cheat
with 2 if the weaver just won't reach, but not 2 consecutive rows. A 4 stake overlap is always stronger than 2. If you are weaving with a thick piece of flat
reed or flat oval, always shave the start of each piece or the end of the old weaver (the shaved end is placed behind the unshaven weaver).
The overlap will be much less noticeable.
A: Back Pack Straps may be purchased from:
LL Bean, Inc.
Freeport, ME 04033
800-221-4221
Ask for the Harness System - Not available through their catalog. Ask for retail store item: number 5C443 for a green strap that fits a 24 inch large
pack basket.
Back Pack Harness
made from Cotton Straps or Leather are available on AdirondackPackBaskets.com.
These harnesses are made to fit the Adirondack Pack Basket pattern by Lisa Nortz. These are completed harnesses
available from a company not affiliated with The Country Seat, Inc. Please see AdirondackPackBaskets.com for prices.
We are offering this link as a service to our customers. We make no promises or guarantees regarding theses products.
Please contact AdirondackPackBaskets.com directly if you have questions about their products.
If you would like to make your own cotton harness, please see the
Shaker Tape choices.
Bachelor buttons or rivets, to secure the harness straps, may be purchased at your local fabric store or hardware store.
A: Reed scraps tend to multiply very quickly. Here are some solutions:
If the reed is small in width (11/64", 3/16", 1/4"), try looking for
patterns for small or miniature baskets. See books such as: Mini Memories I & II and patterns such as: Miniature Baskets by
Richards and the Mini Marathon Collections I & II by Gibson. Type the word miniature in the search box of our
On-line catalog for more patterns. These small sizes can be the
weavers or the stakes for small baskets. Try the mini wire handles on small baskets for ornaments or favors.
If the reed is short but wide, try using it with a slotted base. Many patterns call for short stakes. Depending on the size of the base, you may need
many short pieces of reed.
Short pieces of round reed (#4, 5, 6, 7, and larger) or spline can be used to make bushel basket handles for miniatures up to full size baskets.
Short pieces of round reed can also be used as spokes with slotted bases or drilled bases.
Use shorter pieces to create curls on small sections of a basket. Make patterns with the curls.
Try a pattern with French Randing. This technique uses short pieces (usually dyed), one for each stake, woven on an angle.
Please see French Randing section on this page.
If you just can't figure out a use for the scraps, cut them up into tiny pieces and add them to your compost pile or mix them right into your existing mulch.
A: Visit our Basketry Reed Page for pictures and information on the growing, harvesting
and producing of reed. You'll also find more information about Seagrass, Antler Laws in PA and dyeing paper rush.
The Right Side vs. the Wrong Side of Reed
- Q: I have made several baskets and seem to have the most trouble determining the right side of small sizes of reed (1/4" and smaller). Is there any trick to this?
Best advice is to bend a piece around your finger while the reed is dry. The wrong side should show raised hairs. Or try bending a dry piece in half (do it near the end so as to not waste too much reed) one way will probably crack more than the other. Often times, the smaller reed will have a side with slightly rounded edges and a side with sharp edges. The good side is the one with the slightly rounded edges.
If you still can't tell, don't worry about it. Both sides are probably equally as good. Once the reed is wet it's harder to determine which is right/wrong. Try putting a little pencil mark on the wrong side before you put the reed in the water to soak.
- Q: What is rim filler?
It is inserted after the stakes are tucked down and before lashing the rim. It is used to conceal the cut and bent edges of the tops of the stakes, but can be omitted. Round reed or seagrass is commonly used as rim filler. Braided round reed or seagrass strands are other possibilities. The size or thickness of the filler depends on the space between the rim pieces.
Always allow extra length in case of error. It can be adjusted right before you lash over the joint. If you place the filler joint just to the left of your rim overlaps, it will be easier to adjust (when lashing to the right).
How to join rim filler for the least visible ends:
Round reed ends should have a long taper and then be overlapped. The lasher should cover the overlap as much as possible.
Seagrass ends can be twisted together to create a seamless rope. Leave at least 2-4 inches of overlap. Lash the rim until you are near the filler overlap. Untwist each side. You may loose a few short pieces, nothing to panic about. Now twist together one end from each side. When you are happy with the results, trim off excess and make sure that the lasher covers any ends.
Baskets with handles - the rim filler can be cut so that it lays tight against the handle, an X lash at the handle will cover these ends. The filler can also continue around the basket, laying in front of or behind the handle, whichever works best. Secure ends like above.
- Q: How can I get the shape I want?
Stakes are like children: they need constant, gentle attention. Gently push them or pull them where they should be each row. The weaver snakes around the stakes and should not cause the stakes to bend around the weaver (unless the pattern specifically calls for that effect). Keep a constant spacing between the stakes: continually widening the space if you want the basekt to flare or continually lessening if you want the basket to decrease in diameter.
Here is a wonderful article written by Judith Olney - a master at the art of hand shaping baskets and author of patterns such as Denty Baskets.
Part 1: Choosing the Correct Weight Materials
Shaping begins with choice of materials. The stakes must be the correct weight (thickness and stiffness) for the size and proposed use of the basket. Weavers are usually thinner and more flexible than the stakes, but not so thin and flexible as to be overwhelmed by the strength of the stakes. As a general rule, the smaller the spaces between the stakes are, the thinner and more flexible the weaver should be. When the spaces between the stakes are large, strong and thicker weavers are required to hold the stakes in place and maintain the shape of the basket.
Shaping continues in the mind of the basketmaker. Good shaping demands knowing and understanding what determines shape and how the elements used in constructing the basket interact to produce the conditions necessary to achieve a desired shape.
Part 2: Making the Spaces Even
Shape has two components: the position of the stakes and the size of the spaces between them. If you have chosen your stakes carefully they should be equal to each other in their widths and weight. The variable in the shape of a basket is the spaces between the stakes. when the spaces are kept even throughout the weaving process, the resulting basket will be evenly shaped. When the spaces are closer on one side of the basket and correspondingly farther apart on another, a curved basket will have bulges and flat places; a flared basket will list to one side. Closely spaced stakes turn upward and change direction much more readily than stakes with distance between them. No amount of adjustment to the finished basket can ever make a basket with unevenly spaced stakes appear well shaped. Evenly maintained spaces in combination with properly conceived and executed weaving techniques produce well shaped baskets.
Part 3: Rows of Weaving Should Touch Each Other
Correct weaving for shape has its own particular mind set. Throughout the weaving of any basket, think of placing each stake in its proper position then placing the weaver on the stake in such a way as to hold it in that position. To do this it is necessary to understand how weavers hold stakes in place. Twining holds stakes the best of all weaves because the two twiners "lock" as they pass each other traveling in and out between each stake. The over/under strokes of plain weave do not lock the stakes in place. The ability of plain weave to hold stakes in place can be enhanced by carefully making certain that each weaver touches the previous waving every time it passes in or out between the stakes. That touch is the closest over/under weaving can come to the "lock" of twining. When a weaver does not touch the existing weaving, the stakes are not necessarily held in place: they, and the entire basket, can easily become distorted. Because the weaver passes over and under groups of stakes in twill weaves, the need for it to touch the previous weaving becomes even more critical.
Part 4: Don't Pull That Weaver!
It is rarely, if ever, necessary or useful to pull on a weaver to achieve a change of direction while weaving a basket. The forces that result from pulling on a weaver are much too variable to be consistent with precise shaping techniques. The degree of dampness in both the stakes and the weaver, the amount of space between the stakes, and the type of weave being used all influence the distance tension from a pull can travel around a basket. If both the stakes and weaver are fairly dry and there is space between the stakes, a pull can tighten the far side of the basket. Even if the stakes and weaver are both quite damp, a twill weave can allow tension from pulling to travel farther than intended. Damp, close-spaced stakes in combination with plain over/under weaving and a damp weaver can cause a healthy pull to have little or no effect.
Part 5: Turning the Basket Up or In
Manipulating the stakes and using the weaver to hold them concentrates all of the changes in shape immediately under the fingertips and right in front of eyes. The actual technique for turning a basket inward is far simpler than the conceptual considerations that precede its use would indicate. The over stroke of weaving controls inward or upward changes of direction. Push inward on each stake in turn as the weaver passes over it. This is accomplished more easily with finesse than force. Choose a moderately stiff weaver if the spaces between stakes will permit it. Spritz the unwoven part of the stakes if they feel stiff. Pushing inward on the outside stakes lessens the distance the weaver needs to travel between the backs of the two stakes on either side of the pushed in stake. The effect is the same as pulling: less weaver is placed in the basket. The effect, however, involves only the pushed stake. The force of the push is determined by the intended shape of the basket. If the turn inward is to be abrupt, push almost to horizontal; if the turn is to be more gradual, push correspondingly less. As the shaping continues, the push will ever more vigorously approach horizontal. After a round of pushing in on the outside states and placing just enough weaver over them to hold them, there should be a distinct difference of angle between the stakes that have been pushed and those that have not. Ideally the pushed stakes will maintain their angle while the pushed stakes from the next round lean even farther into the basket. As the stakes turn ever more inward and the spaces between them become smaller, the weaver must be increasingly thinner and more flexible.
To avoid pitfalls, make certain that the pushed stake bends inward right at the top of the previous row of weaving. Under no circumstances should pushing in on the stake involve the existing weaving. If the stake merely leans inward pulling weaving with it when pushed, the basket will merely lean inward. If the top part of the weaving also bends inward when the stake is pushed on or below the top row of weaving, the area to be woven is actually stretched so that the diameter of the basket will continue to expand. The area to be woven also stretches if the stake is pushed past horizontal.
Over/under baskets with stakes that are far apart and twill baskets are more difficult to turn up or in than over/under baskets with normally placed stakes. In both cases the existing weaving almost always bends with the pushed stake. Supporting the stake that is being pushed by holding it against the last row of existing weaving will force a bend at the top of that row and facilitate the change of direction. Using the stiffest weaver allowed by the stake spaces on the rows just before the change of direction will also aid in shaping these baskets.
Part 6: Flaring the Basket Out
The under stroke controls the weaving of outward flaring baskets and outward changes of direction. Generally this type of shaping is much more difficult than turning a basket inward because of most basketmakers' innate tendency to pull on the weaver. Flaring a basket outward requires absolutely no tension on the weaver. The stakes are merely held at the desired angle while the weaver is made to curve around over and under them. To turn a basket outward, reverse the process described above for turning it inward: pull each inside stake outward at the desired angle and place the weaver under it to hold it in place.
Part 7: Straight Sided Baskets
Straight sided baskets are shaped more like baskets that flare outward, especially since it is usually necessary to hold the stakes of a straight sided basket slightly outward as they are woven. The spaces between the stakes still determine the shape. A space the same size as the other spaces in the basket must be developed at each corner. The weaver should move in and out, over and under the stakes holding them in place, but never binding or bending them. The wider the weaver is, the more it becomes imperative that the weaver touch the previous weaving and bend as it moves in and out between the stakes.
Ed. Note – original note from the Northeast Basketmakers Newsletter: Judy writes: "This article is not under copyright, so anyone may use it, but I would, out of curiosity, like to know when and how it is used." If you reprint this in any way, please contact Judy and tell her how you used it.
- Q: How do I know how long the stakes should be if the pattern calls for one size "D" handle but I want to use a different size?
If you are using a larger handle than in the pattern, make sure you add extra stakes both horizontally and vertically (otherwise your stakes will be too far apart and you will be left with a weak base and basket).
- Q: I'm stumped on how to control all the spokes when starting an apple basket, and how do you add the 2nd set of spokes when it is a double bottom?
There is a hole in the center for a T-pin. The T-pin is inserted through the first set of spokes. Twine or weave as far as the pattern calls for. The weaving table has a "lazy Susan base" so that it revolves. No need to slide the base, just turn the table.
(This also works great for wooden slotted bases. I use sticky putty to hold the wood base stationary, insert all the stakes and start weaving. After the weaving is stable, the base can be removed and you continue up the sides.)
When it is time to add the second set of spokes, remove theT-pin. You can leave it out or replace it as you add the new spokes. Do not try to add all the spokes at one time. Keep them in a pile next to you. Lay one across the base so that it sits in between two original spokes. Twine/weave around the new spoke and twine/weave around the next original spoke. Now add another new spoke, twine/weave around this one and the original spoke next to it. Continue twining/weaving in this manner until all the new spokes have been added. When you have gone once around, all the new spokes will be held in place. You can continue twining/weaving, using the grids on the weaving table as a guide. It will also help you see if you are twining/weaving in a perfect circle or if the base is lopsided. Small square and rectangular baskets can also be laid out on the weaving table. The grids will measure for you and help to keep the base "trued". The twining or retainer row can be woven while the base is on the weaving table. The table will turn so the base doesn't drag on the table. Sometimes a stake can pull out of place while the base is turned for this first row. You don't need to worry about that on the weaving table.
When it is time to indent the base, try using your knee for pressure or try weaving around your knee. Some baskets call for a large or "kicked in" bottom and others have just a slight indentation so that they sit well. The large "kicked in" bottom was very useful for fruit baskets. The fruit didn't roll all over the bottom of the basket and the weight was distributed evenly.
How Many Spokes for
Slotted Wooden Bases?
- Q: How do I know how many spokes to insert into a slotted wooden base?
Measure the circumference of the base.
Multiply by .25 (for 1/4" space between spokes) and round this off to the next highest number (ex: 6.25 becomes 7).
Subtract this number from the circumference and divide the balance by the width of the reed for the spokes (ex: 1/2" = .5).
Remember, you want to have an even number of spokes for start stop weaving, odd number for continuous weave so you may have to subtract one spoke from your total.
- Q: What are all the tools, listed in your catalog, used for?
Here are some great tools to get you started:
Basket Shears (they are strong enough to trim your rose bushes and cut half round reed but fine enough to trim the hairs after the basket is finished)
Packing Tool - Weaverite™ H (used in place of the thumb or finger nails - tip - weave the sides of the basket, allow to dry, pack down the rows, rewet the top of the stakes and tuck - this will result in a stronger basket)
Stanley 1/4" x 6' Pocket Tape Measure (helpful for measuring stakes or the overall size of a finished basket, etc.)
Flat tipped awl Weaverite™ B or D (used to create space when tucking stakes into weaving, lashing rims, adding curls, weaving round reed rims, etc.)
Eversand Pads 1400 (Coarse/Medium) & 1401 (Fine/Extra Fine) (can be used wet or dry, each pad has 2 different grits to sand any exposed handle areas, or rough pieces of reed, etc. )
Stanley Surform Shaver (to taper edges of the overlap on flat oval rims - works best on dry reed)
1" or 1/2" opening Rubber Tipped Clamps or Hippo Clamps (to hold a rim in place while lashing, holding the corner stakes together while weaving the first several rows of the side, holding the end of a weaver in place until the overlap is woven, 1/2" Clamps are good for ornaments like the Puffy Ash Heart and Carolina Snowflakes, etc.)
Here are some more great tools and some of their advantages in weaving:
Platoshear Diagonal Cutters (great for cutting inside stakes flush with the last row of weaving, trimming the ends on the inside of a basket in round reed work)
Scissors Guard (covers the sharp blades of your scissors (fids, awls, plato shears, etc.), protects the scissors and you)
Spoke Weight (works great to hold stakes in place while weaving in the other direction, also works to measure small items and true your woven base)
Fid
Wood Handled Awl
Heavy Duty Awl
5" Plastic Handled Awl ( awls are used constantly for round reed weaving, creating space, etc. The Heavy Duty Awl is great for adding handles, etc in round reed and willow work. The Fid was originally used for making cordage, the diamond shape lends it to creating openings.)
Brass Reed Gauge (sliding gauge accurately measures reed in inches and millimeters at the same time)
Plastic Reed Gauge (not as accurate, but an inexpensive measuring tool, pre-formed spaces and holes for flat, flat oval, half round & round reed)
Weaving Table (circular and square 1" grid makes laying out square or round spoked bases easy, revolving base aides in the weaving of round spoked bases, no more turning the basket base - just turn the weaving table, center hole for T-pin (included))
Lash Buddies (Aides in lashing baskets, allows the lasher to slide on the grooved metal rather than against the reed, string with beads helps to easily find the Lash Buddies)
EZ Lasher & Mini EZ Lasher (A brand new tool that works like a needle to aid in lashing rims. The lasher material sticks in the tip of the EZ lasher, no more frayed ends! It is made from Grade 304 Stainless Steel. According to the steel industry: Grade 304 has excellent corrosion resistance in a wide range of media. It resists ordinary rusting in most architectural applications. It is also resistant to most food processing environments, can be readily cleaned, and resists organic chemicals, dye stuffs and a wide variety of inorganic chemicals.)
Reed Cutters (good for rough cutting, cuts fiber rush well)
Genuine Bone Awl (aides in packing, lashing, etc.)
X-Acto Blades (fits X-Acto knives, good for light carving, trimming overlaps on rims)
T-Pins (hold spokes in place, works great with the Weaving Table)
Basket Thread (used to hold hoops together until Gods eye is finished, lashing twill or other baskets with small spaces between stakes)
"Basket by" Tags (great to let the world know who made that beautiful basket, add your name and any personal or basket related information)
All the Weaverite™ tools (various uses: lashing, packing, adding overlay spokes or weavers (the long tools are great for plaid baskets), adding curls, tucking spokes, making spaces, weaving round reed rims, adding embellishments, etc.)
All the tools are pictured in the secure on-line catalog.
to the top of the page
- Q: What do I do when the stakes crack while turning them down?
- Q: The un-notched "U"s seem like an economical handle choice, but how do you secure them? Don't they just pull right out of the basket?
-
Make 2 small "V" cuts on opposite edges of the handle where the top of the rim will be. Make an "X" lash around the handle and the lasher
will catch in the handle cuts.
- Wrap the handle with reed or cane, anchoring the wrapping material under the rim. See the book
Fancy Handles
for 16 different ways to wrap a handle.
- Glue or tack handle in place.
- Q: What is the best way to store reed?
- Q: How are the wire hangers used?
The bean pot and jelly wires are usually attached over the center spokes of the basket with wire eyelets (separate loops of wire). Only the horizontal bars of the eyelets are lashed into the rim. The eyelets enable the handle to swing.
A few types of jelly and bean pot wires do not have a pre-bent loop. These handles with the straight ends can be attached in several ways:
1) Using a pair of pliers, bend the bottom into a loop and attach to mini eyelets or large eyelets purchased separately and attach as above.
2) Complete the basket and lash the rim. Now bend the bottom of the wire under and back around the rim. The end can be twisted back around the wire above the rim.
3) Using a pair of pliers, bend the bottom of the wire 90 degrees. Tuck your stakes over the bend and lash the rim as usual.
#2 & #3 will result in a stationary handle.
The Country Seat, Inc.
Basket Making & Chair Seat Weaving Supplies
1013 Old Philly Pike
Kempton, Pennsylvania 19529-9321 USA
Phone: 610-756-6124
e-mail: weaving@countryseat.com
Fax: 610-756-0088
web site: www.countryseat.com
Free print catalog upon request. Please e-mail us at
weaving@countryseat.com with your name and postal address. Catalog #31 is the current
print catalog and will be sent with your first order. Please keep the Country Seat Courier newsletters as they contain new products and any changes to the print catalog. New products are added to the on-line catalog as they arrive. If you have placed an order and do not already have them, catalog #31 and newsletters will be sent with the order to keep you up to date.
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