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Free Patterns

More Free Basket Patterns
"2005 Odyssey Vase" by Suzette Humer
"Beginner Muffin Basket" by Linda Clifton
"Blue Striped Basket" by Luanne Lindeman
"Easy Weaving on a Round Drilled Base"
"Fall Door Basket" by Rhonda Krula
"Jordan's Waste Basket" by Rhonda Krula
"Mini Oval Herb Basket"
"Piedmont Planter Basket"
"Taper Candle Basket"
"Together We Share" Convention Basket 1993
"Woven Lampshade Baskets"

"Carolina Candy Basket"
Please share this pattern with your basketmaking friends.
Please do not sell this pattern.

Carolina Candy Basket
Finished size: 4" x 4" base x 3" high

How to Make a Carolina Candy Basket

Materials:
3/8 flat reed (stiff for stakes and flexible for weavers & lashing)


Supplies Needed:
Spring type clothespins or mini clamps
Container for soaking reed
Tape measure or yard stick
Scissors
Pencil
Awl or small flat screwdriver

Step I: CUTTING THE STAKES AND WEAVING THE BASE

From the 3/8" flat reed, cut 10 pieces 12" long and 4 pieces 4" long. Mark a center or half-way point on all the pieces, ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE REED. (The wrong side is the rougher side. If you are having trouble identifying the wrong side, bend a piece over your finger. The wrong side should splinter and look "hairy" when bent and the right side should be smooth.) SOAK ALL THE PIECES FOR 1 TO 2 MINUTES IN WARM WATER.

Aligning the center marks, lay 5 of the 12" pieces horizontally on a flat surface with the 4" pieces in the "spaces", WRONG SIDE UP. See DIAGRAM 1... These 9 pieces should be "flush" against each other... no spaces between them.
dia 1
Diagram 1

Next, weave the other five 12" pieces, vertically, over and under the horizontal ones, referring to DIAGRAM 2. The edges of the two outside pieces should be flush with the ends of the 4" pieces and should be woven in the same over-under pattern as is the center piece.


dia 2
Diagram 2

Note: If you have difficulty fitting these pieces in, try turning the whole base over (right side up) to push the new stakes in. These pieces (stakes) should have approximately 3/8" space between them. Measure the base once all the stakes are woven in. It should measure 4" square. Mark the corners once the base is measured, so if any slipping occurs, you won't have to remeasure.

STEP II: UPSETTING THE SIDES AND WEAVING
If your reed has dried, rewet all of it to dampen the stakes so they won't break. As in DIAGRAM 3, bend all the long stakes over, upon themselves. They will not remain upright, but it is important that the crease is made at the base of the stakes.


NOTE: EACH ROW IS WOVEN INDEPENDENTLY
dia 3
Diagram 3

Notice that the sides are labeled A, B, C, and D. Sides A and C are the ones with the ends of the 4" pieces, therefore making all the long (12") stakes come from underneath the woven base. Stakes on sides B and D do not have any short pieces between them, making the stakes alternate, one coming from underneath and the next on top. It is on side B or D that you should begin weaving around the basket in the following manner: Begin with a long, SOAKED, 3/8" flat weaver, WRONG SIDE AGAINST THE STAKES, by placing the end on the outside of the SECOND STAKE on side B or D. Hold it in place with a clothes pin. Be sure, on the first row, that the weaver goes around (outside) the stakes that are originating from underneath the base... If you have begun weaving at the correct spot, this will not be a problem. SEE DIAGRAM 4. Weave all the way around the basket, back to the starting point, going over one stake and behind the next. Use clothes pins all the way around to help hold the first row in place.


dia 4
Diagram 4

As in DIAGRAM 5, continue with the same weaver going over the "beginning end" to the fourth stake. Cut the weaver so it falls on the outside of the 4th stake. It will be hidden when the 4th stake stands on the next row.


dia 5
Diagram 5

Each row will be woven in the same manner, but keep in mind that each row should begin in a different spot so as not to create a "build up" from constantly starting and stopping in the same place. SEE DIAGRAM 5, FOR THE FIRST ROW WOVEN AND THE SECOND ROW BEGINNING. If you turn the basket 1/4 turn each row, you will avoid a "build up" problem. Continue to weave, one row at a time, for 5 rows. Do not pinch the corners, but allow them to "round".


Pack each row down against the previous one as snugly as possible.

STEP III: TUCKING THE ENDS AND APPLYING THE RIM

When all five rows are done and tightly packed, cut the stakes that are on the inside of the basket, even with (or a little below) the last row of weaving. Then point all the outside stakes as in DIAGRAM 6. Rewet the ends of the stakes and bend them to the inside, tucking the ends into the weaving behind the third row.
dia 6
Diagram 6

When all the stakes are cut and tucked, place a piece of SOAKED 3/8" flat reed around the inside, covering the top row of weaving, wrong side against the basket. Hold it in place with clothes pins. Make sure the wrong side of the reed is against the basket. Allow the ends to overlap about 1-1/2". Then repeat the process on the outside of the basket, holding both pieces with the same clothes pins. Again make sure the wrong side of the rim is against the basket. SEE DIAGRAM 7.


dia 7
Diagram 7

Next, split (with scissors) a long (approximately 3') SOAKED, FLEXIBLE piece of the 3/8" flat reed for a lasher. SPLIT THE REED IN HALF LENGTHWISE.

Begin lashing the rim pieces together by inserting one end of the narrow lasher under the rim, securing it behind a row of weaving as in DIAGRAM 8.

dia 8
Diagram 8

Wrap around the rim pieces going in the spaces between two stakes and under the rim. Continue lashing from one space to the next. Always use the awl to help open the space. Finish the lashing the same way you began, either bringing the end up between the rim pieces or pushing it down into the weaving inside the basket.

Trim any "hairs" you might find on the outside of the basket. Individual strips can be dyed the color of your choice and woven in or the whole basket may be dyed.:

reprinted with permission
©1987, Commonwealth Mfg., Co.



Please remember that the copyright for each pattern belongs to the author of the pattern. You may print the patterns for personal use; you may not sell, distribute or publish the patterns in written or web format.

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