More Free Basket Patterns
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"Blue Striped Basket" by Luanne Lindeman
"Carolina Candy Basket"
"Easy Weaving on a Round Drilled Base"
"Fall Door Basket" by Rhonda Krula
"Jordan's Waste Basket" by Rhonda Krula
"Mini Oval Herb Basket"
"Together We Share" Convention Basket 1993
"Woven Lampshade Baskets"
"Piedmont Planter Basket"
Please share this pattern with your basketmaking friends.
Please do not sell this pattern.
Finished size 5" wide x 4½" high
How to Make a Piedmont Planter
Materials: #3 round reed
Container for soaking reed
Tape measure or yard stick
Scissors or cutters
LAYING OUT THE BASE AND BEGINNING TO WEAVE
Cut 12 pieces of the #3 round reed 20" long.
Make a pencil mark at the half way point (at 10") on each piece.
Soak them, along with a long (at least 4' - 5') very flexible piece, in warm water for 1 or 3 minutes (until they feel flexible).
Place 6 of the 12 pieces on a flat surface, horizontally, with the other 6 on top, vertically.
SEE DIAGRAM 1. Align the center marks.
With the long soaked weaver, begin to twine around the 12 pieces (henceforth called spokes ) by folding it almost in half around one
set of the horizontal spokes as in DIAGRAM 2.
NOTE: Leave one end about 5" longer than the other so they don't end at the same time.
In twining, the two pieces of the weaver move over and under the spokes in a clockwise direction (if you are right-handed). Right now, you are treating the groups of
6 pieces as "one spoke". One stroke is a weaver moving over a spoke, and under the next spoke. The weaver that was on top the last row, is
under the next, always picking the top piece up first and moving it under the next spoke. Notice how the weavers "twist" between spokes as
you alternate "overs" and "unders". Consult DIAGRAMS 3, 4, and 5 for one complete revolution of twining.
DIAGRAM 6 shows 2 complete revolutions made.
STEP II: SPLICING (or ADDING on) A NEW WEAVER
When one end of a weaver, with which you are twining, runs out, begin a new one by overlapping the end of a new piece beside the old one.
Do this ON THE BOTTOM OF THE BASE YOU ARE WEAVING. The pressure of your hand and the next row of twining will hold the new piece in
place (lay the new piece side-by-side with the old one). If the new weaver is moving around too much and you feel you can't control it, hold it in place with a clothespin, clamp, etc. Once you weave past this point with the next row you will no longer need a clamp at this spot. Go back later and cut the 2 ends so they "butt" together and look nicer.
See DIAGRAM 7.PLEASE NOTE: this picture is showing the bottom of your basket (see how the weavers are facing the opposite direction compared to all the other pictures).
STEP III: DIVIDING THE SPOKES
At this point, after two rows of twining, divide the spokes into pairs, beginning with the first two in the set with which you began. See DIAGRAM
From now on every pair of spokes will be referred to as "one".
Continue twining in the same manner as before, using one piece and then the other to move over and under. KEEP A CONSTANT CHECK ON
THE SHAPE OF YOUR BASE, MAKING SURE IT IS STAYING ROUND.
See DIAGRAM 9.
NOTE: THE DRAWINGS ARE SHOWN LOOSELY WOVEN FOR CLARITY ONLY, IN REALITY, THEY SHOULD FIT VERY SNUGLY TOGETHER.
Keep the 1-2 feet of your weavers (the section that is closest to your basket) wet at all times. When they start to dry out, gently pull them through a wet sponge. Twine until the base measures approximately 4" across. Wet the whole base again if it has dried. At this point, all the splices of weavers are on the bottom of the base. The bottom of the base will become the inside of the basket. Lift the base off the surface, turn it over and bend all the stakes so they stand upright. The spokes will not stay upright until you twine a few rows up the side but you need to push the spokes into the possition that you want them to be in before you start weaving up the sides. You can now hold the basket and continue twining the sides in a clockwise direction FROM THE OUTSIDE.
STEP IV: WEAVING THE SIDES AND BORDER
shows the bottom all twined and the sides started to turn upward. Simply continue to weave up the sides in the same manner as you constructed the
base. The only difference is that you aren't weaving on a flat surface now.
Remember that the pairs of spokes are treated as "one". Add new weavers just as before, overlapping ends, on the inside of the basket.
Twine up the sides for 2-1/2" or as high as you want (as long as you have 4" or 5" of the spokes left with which to make the border). NOTE: Make every effort to make the sides stand straight and not flare.
When your desired height is reached, refer to DIAGRAM 11 (a view of the outside of the basket)
to make the border, and bend each spoke group to the RIGHT, behind the spoke group to IT'S RIGHT and to the OUTSIDE.
Once all the spokes are turned outward, begin anywhere and, looking at DIAGRAM 12
push each one back to the INSIDE, going under the "bent spoke" to the right. SEE the "cut ends" on the drawing of the finished basket at the top
of this page. You must cut the ends of the spokes so they lie comfortably inside the basket.
reprinted with permission
©1987, Commonwealth Mfg., Co.
Please remember that the copyright for each pattern belongs to the author of the pattern. You may print the patterns for personal use; you may not
sell, distribute or publish the patterns in written or web format.
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